Hiawatha Trail - Trains, Depression and Bike Rides

Railroads have a critical place in American history. Names such as Union-Pacific, Southern Pacific and Burlington Northern are well known by many. Perhaps less well known was the Milwaukee Railroad. In the 1890s, the directors of the Milwaukee Railroad felt that they were missing out on business and perhaps the continued viability of their line if they did not extend the railroad to the Pacific Coast. They hired engineers and cartographers and mapped out a new route to connect the Midwest to the coast that would be 18 miles shorter than any other transcontinental route. The downside was that it would be very expensive to build as it would have to cross both the Rocky Mountains and the Cascades. They started construction in 1906 and finished in 1909, completing some 2,300 miles of railroad through some of the most challenging topography in the nation. It was an amazing accomplishment.

Once completed the railroad brought on two luxury trains for the new Chicago to Seattle route and chose the name "Olympian" for the flagship train inaugurated in May of 1911. Then, in 1915, the Milwaukee completed an initial section of electrified rail line and advertised to the world that passengers could now travel without the soot associated with steam-powered trains. By the late 1920's there were 440 miles of electrified line taking passengers from Harlowtown, Montana to Avery, Idaho on the longest continually-electrified rail line in the world! In addition to being cleaner, electrified lines could pull loads faster, more reliably and more efficiently.

The Depression years were tough on the railroads, but after World War II they staged a comeback. In June of 1947 the Milwaukee Railroad inaugurated its post-war streamlined flagship named the Olympian Hiawatha that boasted "skytops" or dome cars with huge glass ceilings that have been described as the most distinctive railway cars ever built. The railroad worked hard to promote the train and its highly scenic route through the Bitterroot Mountains of Montana and Idaho as well as the Cascade Range in Washington. Unfortunately it was a highly competitive market both in terms of other railroads as well as the increase in airlines. In 1961 the train was discontinued, but left behind the name, the "Route of the Hiawatha."

As perhaps the most stunning rails-to-trails projects in the United States, the Route of the Hiawatha is unique in the world. Unlike many of these trails that travel across flat terrain, through river valleys or across prairies, the Route of the Hiawatha pierces the very spine of the Bitterroot Mountains. On this route you ride through long, awe-inspiring tunnels carved so that the railroad could maintain a modest grade. You also ride across high trestles that span canyons and fast-flowing creeks. At the time this railroad was built, it was the most expensive railroad ever constructed and today as you ride the trail it's easy to see why.

Ultimately faced with bankruptcy, the Milwaukee Road abandoned its "Puget Sound extension" in 1980, eliminating much of the route of the Olympian Hiawatha. At that point the United States Forest Service stepped in and acquired the line and began the conversion to the spectacular bike trail we enjoy today. The trail was opened in 1998 and work continued a few more years until, in 2001, the final few miles and the long Taft Tunnel was completed and opened for cycling.

The Hiawatha trail is suitable for riders of all abilities due to the fact that it follows a gradual downhill slope. The length is about 15-miles and the ride is on crushed rock and dirt, best suited for mountain bikes or hybrid bikes. It's possible to ride one way going downhill all the way, or ride both ways for a total of 30 miles.

The Route of the Hiawatha is a ride that riders of all abilities can enjoy and is also a perfect family bike ride. It's easy to tow a trailer if you have small children and tag-alongs also work well for children that aren't quite able to ride the distance on their own, but too big for a bike trailer.

Silver Bike Tours offers guided and self-guided bike tours on the Hiawatha trail and are the only outfitter licensed by the State of Idaho and permitted by the US Forest Service to lead guided trips. On our guided Route of the Hiawatha bike tours, we take care of all logistics and enrich your experience with guides that share their knowledge of the history of trail, as well as the natural and cultural history of the region.